![]() The widgets are not as beautiful as Gtk’s and the filechooser is especially bad, but the rest seems to be fine. ![]() Instead, Fulltick is used to build the GUI. #Posterazor compile softwareIt is free software and pretty easy to use. I now was told about PosteRazor! An incredibly useful tool to do more or less the stuff I want. I always wanted to have a tool which works like this: makeposter -format=DINA0 poster.pdf It would scale the image, cut it, add padding for glueing and produce several pages in a single PDF. For other distributions click posterazor. Needless to say, that this takes a considerable amount of time. I began using OpenOffice to create those posters, but it really is uncomfortable: You have to remember which cutout you’ve used in the previous page, then move the image within the page and hope that you match the previous page. #Posterazor compile macHe owned a Mac and it was rather comfortable with those authoring tools. I remember that I’ve asked a friend of mine to do it for me several times in the past. Of course, dealing with psresize, psnup etc wasn’t very comfortable and I rarely was successful. The normal way you do that is to somehow prepare many DIN A4 sheets, so you have to enlarge a given image, cut it into many pieces, probably add some padding and if you’re lucky, you get your PDFs you can print.īut how do you actually do this? I used to use psresize and friends because I just wasn’t aware of anything more useful. Also if I want to experiment I can take a scrap of acetate, tape it to the painting and paint on it.Īfter the painting is finished I clean the acetate with acetone (I use nail polish remover) and re-use it.I had to create a huge poster out of an image. If I lose the drawing I can tape the acetate onto the painting to check my drawing. I always save my acetate until the painting is finished. I’ve never had graphite bleed through a painting doing it this way. Just press lightly and the eraser picks up any loose graphite. Then I use a soft kneaded eraser, to lighten the graphite on the canvas, if needed. Before I remove all the tape I lift the acetate to make sure I have all the drawing, that way I can lay it back down in the right spot if I need to go over an area again. (I use another color so I know where I’ve been.) It took a while to know exactly how hard to press so that I got through the acetate onto the canvas without scoring the canvas. Then I put books or magazines under the canvas to keep it from sagging or stretching while I draw over the red with a blue or black sharpie. If the painting is large I can slide the graphite paper around under the acetate and the tape holds everything in place. ![]() and place the acetate over it and tape it down with white artist’s tape. Then I lay a piece of graphite paper onto my canvas. I do a charcoal drawing first, place a sheet of acetate over it (same size as or larger than the painting), and trace the drawing onto the acetate with a red fine point sharpie. I employ this method routinely, and it works very well, indeed. One needs not even dream of applying some questionable, “isolating layer” of a “fixative” or “shellac” to protect the lines from paint application. The advantages to this method is that you have a drawing that is the exact size of the canvas (created by means of a grid), you are using charcoal, which will NOT bleed or “strike through” the paint, as graphite is accused of doing, the transferred lines are incredibly durable, and capable of withstanding all sorts of “abuse” when applying the oil paint of the image. It is very indelible, and can be painted over, with oil paint, without losing the lines of the drawing. Once youre happy with the output you can print and build your panel poster. This transferred charcoal drawing is nothing to be sneezed at, in terms of durability. PosteRazor is a free Macintosh, Windows, and Linux application that is the. When this final, oil-painted surface has dried, I hinge my tracing paper on the prepared canvas, and, using a ballpoint pen as a stylus, trace over the lines of my drawing, thus transferring my charcoal to the oil-painted surface of the canvas. This provides a wonderful surface upon which to paint, and also to transfer a drawing. Over that, I apply two coats of lead white, oil paint, tinted with some Raw Umber. Im using openSUSE 11.1, qt 4.4.3, posterazor compiled with simple qmake make. I prepare my canvas with several layers of acrylic primer, sanded between coats, and after the last one. The PosteRazor cuts a raster image into pieces which can afterwards be. Once completed, I turn the paper over, and apply soft vine charcoal on the back of the tracing paper, but only where my drawing lines are located. ![]() Usually, that involves my gridding and drawing directly onto that tracing paper. I create my drawing on thin paper, such as tracing paper, that is the exact size of the canvas. ![]()
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